Harvest was a week later than 2018.? The biggest shift I have seen at both estates is a focus on gentler winemaking. For example we did not have to rush to pick the Merlots as we often do. We saw good diurnal shifts leading up to what was a late harvest. ?The biggest difference between the two years is that summer was much drier in 2019. (Originally Published in March 2022) - By Antonio Galloni on February 2022 ?We had a very cool spring in 2019 and almost as much rain as 2018? Ornellaia and Masseto Estate Manager Axel Heinz relayed. But there certainly appears to be a lot to look forward to. The 2019 has just been bottle so it's early. Red berry fruit mocha cinnamon and blood orange lend freshness throughout. I can?t say I am at all surprised given how much Franc has added to Massetino. This is the first year that includes Cabernet Franc 10% in this case. So often Masseto is a powerhouse at this stage but the 2019 is so elegant so precise. Silky gracious and super-refined the 2019 is a total knock-out. My tasting took place at the winery with the estate’s new winemaker, Gaia Cinnirella, and Axel Heinz, who has moved into an overseer role as the estate director. The oldest vines are currently approaching 40 years old, and in newer vintages, Cabernet Franc they planted more recently has been making its way into the wines.
The concrete also takes on some of the qualities of barrel fermentation, without adding the additional flavors that barrels would contribute. Instead, 20 to 25% of the wine is now fermented in concrete tanks, with the remainder in oak barrels. One feature of the new winery has been to move away from the use of stainless steel, which they found could contribute to reductive qualities. Their new winery, which debuted in 2018, was designed by architects Hikaru Mori and Maurizio Zito of the ZitoMori Studio, who named it “The Quarry.” It is an impressive design, with the exterior blending into the landscape, only to reveal its true grandeur upon entering the winery beneath.
The adjacent sister property to Ornellaia, the Masseto estate in Bolgheri produces benchmark wines based on Merlot, with its first vintage in 1987. A beautiful wine, it is showing its pedigree now but should certainly be cellared, as this is going to be a wine to enjoy over the next several decades. Luxurious with red and black fruits, it offers notes of pure red apple, blackberry, graphite, and lavender, and it is long and persistent while retaining a transparent nature with a refreshing feel.
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The palate is full and refined, with well-managed and fine tannin structure. The 2019 Masseto is a remarkably potent wine woven with layers of incense, polished leather, and macchia herbs.
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